SALTWATER BATTERIES

I am getting into what I am reading about these things!:

http://www.solarpanelsplus.com/solar-battery/

Here is the spec sheet on the smaller battery:

http://www.solarpanelsplus.com/solar-battery/S30-0080TechInfoSheet.pdf

These might be better suited for a basement or garage where weight and space is not as big an issue as it might be in a portable unit.

SALT WATER BATTERIES - STORE ENERGY FOR THE ENTIRE HOME FROM WIND AND SOLAR

This will come out just a year or two too late....:

http://www.offgridworld.com/3000-saltwater-battery-can-power-your-off-grid-home-for-10-years/

Man - timing is everything.

THE BEST WATER HEATING ELEMENTS FOR WIND LOAD DIVERSION

These have built in thermostats:

http://mwands.com/store/dc-water-heating-elements/adjustable-water-heating-element

MAKING A SYSTEM COMPACT

I have taken all of this (plus wind generation):

          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDvtBX69ayU&feature=player_embedded

 and loaded it all into a package the size of a small utility trailer.  It is proving to be quite the challenge.  Since it is portable and I am making it EMP-resistant, there are a lot of considerations that are in addition to the fixed systems you would install in a building.

MICRO-HYDRO THAT IS ROBUST WITH OPEN PELTON WHEEL CHAMBER

This unit will resist Pelton wheel erosion and pre-mature bearing failure due to excessive cavitation:

This is kind of my dream - but I know that the possibility of using it is rare.  You have to have the right climate (freezing in the winter) and you have to own enough of the creek that you can develop enough head for proper generation:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njNYuEKW-ek&feature=player_embedded

Thankfully, there is usually plenty of wind in most places.  Especially in the Rockies!

The nice thing about hydro is that the energy output is relatively constant, once you tweak it - as long as you have a year-round creek.  The same cannot be said for wind.

If you are into this stuff, I have updated a lot more on the other energy blog:

http://hybridenergysolutions.blogspot.com/


Enjoy!

THE USE OF BLOCKING DIODES WITH THE THREE TYPES OF SOLAR PANELS

This is interesting information:

There are primarily three types of solar electric panel technologies being used today.
1) SINGLE CRYSTALLINE 2) POLY CRYSTALLINE 3) AMORPHOUS
How should blocking diodes be used with each type of panel?
SINGLE CRYSTALLINE panels are glass covered rigidly mounted panels. They have a low nighttime back flow of
power from the batteries. The loss at night is actually a little less than the amount of loss you get by adding a
blocking diode to the panel. On a single panel system you may get more out of your panel if you do not use a
blocking diode on these type of panels, On multiple panel arrays, blocking diodes should be used, especially
on unattended remote systems, to guard against a failed panel. Because they are glass covered, a stray falling
branch, hailstones, a child with a rock, or bored hunter could bring the entire system down by damaging only one
panel.
POLY CRYSTALLINE panels are also glass covered rigidly mounted panels. They have a slightly higher
nighttime draw of power from the batteries when compared to single crystalline panels. The loss at night is near
equal to the loss you get by adding a blocking diode to the panel. You may or may not get more out of your panel
by using blocking diodes on these type of panels, On multiple panel arrays, blocking diodes should be used,
especially on unattended remote systems, to guard against a failed panel. Because they are glass covered, a
stray falling branch, hailstones, a child with a rock, or bored hunter could bring the entire system down by
damaging only one panel.
AMORPHOUS panels are a very different when compared to the other types of panels. They have a fairly
substantial nighttime draw of power from the batteries when compared to single crystalline panels. The loss at
night is higher than the loss you get by adding a blocking diode to the panel; in addition, these type panels could
actually draw enough power from the batteries at night to damage themselves if diodes are not used. To
compensate for the diode loss, most amorphous panels have a higher operating voltage, to make up for the
voltage drop losses of the diode.
Blocking diodes should be used on all systems when panels have been connected in series to charge 24V,
or higher voltage batteries, or when using an inverter on the system. Inverters can cause voltage spikes
as high as 60 volts on the DC positive wires. This is enough voltage to damage most solar panels.
In conclusion; blocking diodes should be used on all systems except, one panel single crystalline 12V systems. If your system
is so marginal that using, or not using diodes will make the difference, consider adding another solar panel to your system

WIND BRAKE SWITCH FOR WIND BLUE (AND ALSO THE INTERNALLY-CONTROLLED) WIND MILLS

In case the wind is fierce and you want to brake the wind mill as the mast is being lowered to fair it out of the wind or for hassle-free servicing:

https://youtu.be/x9PXGcGV2uw?t=434

 

You will want to use a 250VAC, 20 Amp, Double Pole,  Single Throw (three position/three terminal) switch that can be had from the Home Depot.  I used one of these to my Class B RV for using the microwave with the on-board inverter powered by the house battery:

 

http://www.truevalue.com//catalog/product.jsp?productId=6490&parentCategoryId=4&categoryId=58&subCategoryId=505&type=product&cid=gooshop&source=google_pla&9gtype={ifsearch:search}{ifcontent:content}&9gkw={keyword}&9gad={creative}.1&9gpla={placement}&ctcampaign=4680&ctkwd={product_id}&ctmatch=&ctcreative={Creative}&ctplacement=247890-44622122499&gclid=Cj0KEQjw2sO3BRD49-zdzfb8iLwBEiQAFZgZfN7-z20n_hMnupN77Hlpz9YY3qW-1QMlC6b6yRjrkWIaAuiY8P8HAQ

Here is a copy of the WD:

Some people add a switch protector since it probably should only be used in an emergency:

  

 

 

SLIP RING CONNECTOR FOR WIND BLUE POWER MILLS

It would be good to have a few of these around if you have constantly shifting winds:

https://youtu.be/x9PXGcGV2uw?t=77

 

Here is a link to buy one:

 

 https://www.google.com/search?q=slip+ring+for+windmill+&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

WHERE TO GO FOR 6000W AND 8000W GEN-SETS THAT ARE NEW

In S. Alberta.

This price is fantastic:

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-tool-other/calgary/6kw-light-tower-generator-end/1143946339?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

SCHNEIDER 40 AMP MPT WIND CONTROLLER

This controller is a pretty good addition to a solar/wind combo.  Basically, all they do is divert load from battery charging duties to a load diversion (resistor bank or water heating element):

    Schneider Electric C40 PWM Charge controller

This used to be a Xantrex product, but Schneider took over and is hopefully going to take it up a notch.  I notice that they added the black heat-sink to this unit over the old Xantrex model.  Xantrex makes decent inverters and I am using the 1000W and 2000W models in my smallest power generation package with AGM batteries (more to come later).  I most likely will get the 6000W and the 1500W units out at the same time.

On the 6000W unit, I am STILL looking for something that communicates with the other elements of my system via network port.  Most of these are stand-alone (and that is okay, too), but I would like something that is just slightly more seamlessly integrated.  This is the final piece of my puzzle.  If I can find nothing better, I punt and go with the standby.

HOW TO WIRE UP A WIND BLUE TURBINE - SUGGESTED WIRING

The secret with the wind blue is to have a load dump controller:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9PXGcGV2uw&feature=youtu.be&t=605

I have a 5 blade Wind Blue with 3 Phase/Rectified power source and also the Primus 40.  I am gathering data on both.  I suspect the Wind Blue will double the output of the Primus 40 for my wind conditions in Alberta.  The Primus 40 may make more sense in other conditions.  The Wind Blue is more easily rebuilt in the field with common parts.  Each has their strengths and weaknesses.

Here is a really good and cheap load diversion resistor from Missouri Wind and Solar:

http://store.mwands.com/diversion-dump-load-resistors/1500-watt-diversion-dump-load-resistors-12-24-48-volt/ 

You cannot build them yourself for cheaper than this.
 

SOLAR RACKING ON LIGHT TOWERS

This is the SLT800 from this company:

     http://www.progresssolarsolutions.com/moblie%20solar%20light%20towers.html

Here is their marketing video:

     https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=gEGgwrKS5V0

This is a good example of a seamless racking configuration: 

VERTICAL TURBINES - SAUER ENERGY

I wanted to book-mark this and see how the technology matures:

http://www.sauerenergy.com/

I am interested in the lithium batteries.  A lot more energy density (per unit weight), than other leading battery technologies.

A ROUGH IDEA OF WHAT MY 6000 AND 12,000 WATT UNITS WILL LOOK LIKE

My electronics packages are much more efficient in extracting and restoring charge to/from the batteries using the MagnaSine Inverter/Charger.

http://www.equipmenttraderonline.com/Industrial-Equipment/listing/2013-Mobilight-Hybrid+1200+Solar+%2F+Diesel+Light+Tower-116835130

Cannot wait to get this thing done!

ELECTROMAGNETIC PULSE ON AUTO ELECTRONICS WHEN THEY ARE RUNNING

I need to run a bonded/grounded/shunted generator down to this facility and pay for a test of it in the shielded mode to see how it would do:
   

https://youtu.be/Aj54FcI7_dE

 

I wonder how much it would cost.

MISSOURI WIND AND SOLAR - DUMP/DIVERT LOADS FOR WIND TURBINES

Basics on how to keep your wind turbine from free-wheeling and over-speeding:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2z_097mW0l0

These divert loads can be used to heat shops or barns on cold/windy days.

You can also use a grid-tie as a dump load.  Best in parallel so, if the grid goes down, you will not boil your batteries and ruin them.

WIND GENERATION FOR THE BEGINNER

More basic info from Missouri Wind and Solar:

https://youtu.be/opP13e-TvHM

 

These guys make pretty good low-cogging wind generators in the 1500W to 3000W range.   They are industrial grade.

PERCENT DEPTH OF DISCHARGE OF DEEP CYCLE BATTERIES

You NEVER want to discharge your batteries below 50%:

https://youtu.be/PbCA8RZqeqk?t=651

 

It is better to go towards 60-70% discharge.

HOOKING UP BATTERIES IN PARALLEL VERSUS SERIES

This is great when you are using 6V batts to make 12V system.  Rinse and repeat for 24V in series:

https://youtu.be/VYhH6-hcu8U

CHOOSING A GOOD SOLAR BATTERY - COLD CRANKING AMPS VS AMP-HOURS

This is a good primer on the differences in battery choices that are out there:

https://youtu.be/xELqluPUsuQ

BASICS OF HOOKING UP A SOLAR PANEL

From Missouri Wind and Solar Power:

https://youtu.be/EyxWu2RVQYo