SALTWATER BATTERIES

I am getting into what I am reading about these things!:

http://www.solarpanelsplus.com/solar-battery/

Here is the spec sheet on the smaller battery:

http://www.solarpanelsplus.com/solar-battery/S30-0080TechInfoSheet.pdf

These might be better suited for a basement or garage where weight and space is not as big an issue as it might be in a portable unit.

SALT WATER BATTERIES - STORE ENERGY FOR THE ENTIRE HOME FROM WIND AND SOLAR

This will come out just a year or two too late....:

http://www.offgridworld.com/3000-saltwater-battery-can-power-your-off-grid-home-for-10-years/

Man - timing is everything.

THE BEST WATER HEATING ELEMENTS FOR WIND LOAD DIVERSION

These have built in thermostats:

http://mwands.com/store/dc-water-heating-elements/adjustable-water-heating-element

MAKING A SYSTEM COMPACT

I have taken all of this (plus wind generation):

          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDvtBX69ayU&feature=player_embedded

 and loaded it all into a package the size of a small utility trailer.  It is proving to be quite the challenge.  Since it is portable and I am making it EMP-resistant, there are a lot of considerations that are in addition to the fixed systems you would install in a building.

MICRO-HYDRO THAT IS ROBUST WITH OPEN PELTON WHEEL CHAMBER

This unit will resist Pelton wheel erosion and pre-mature bearing failure due to excessive cavitation:

This is kind of my dream - but I know that the possibility of using it is rare.  You have to have the right climate (freezing in the winter) and you have to own enough of the creek that you can develop enough head for proper generation:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njNYuEKW-ek&feature=player_embedded

Thankfully, there is usually plenty of wind in most places.  Especially in the Rockies!

The nice thing about hydro is that the energy output is relatively constant, once you tweak it - as long as you have a year-round creek.  The same cannot be said for wind.

If you are into this stuff, I have updated a lot more on the other energy blog:

http://hybridenergysolutions.blogspot.com/


Enjoy!

THE USE OF BLOCKING DIODES WITH THE THREE TYPES OF SOLAR PANELS

This is interesting information:

There are primarily three types of solar electric panel technologies being used today.
1) SINGLE CRYSTALLINE 2) POLY CRYSTALLINE 3) AMORPHOUS
How should blocking diodes be used with each type of panel?
SINGLE CRYSTALLINE panels are glass covered rigidly mounted panels. They have a low nighttime back flow of
power from the batteries. The loss at night is actually a little less than the amount of loss you get by adding a
blocking diode to the panel. On a single panel system you may get more out of your panel if you do not use a
blocking diode on these type of panels, On multiple panel arrays, blocking diodes should be used, especially
on unattended remote systems, to guard against a failed panel. Because they are glass covered, a stray falling
branch, hailstones, a child with a rock, or bored hunter could bring the entire system down by damaging only one
panel.
POLY CRYSTALLINE panels are also glass covered rigidly mounted panels. They have a slightly higher
nighttime draw of power from the batteries when compared to single crystalline panels. The loss at night is near
equal to the loss you get by adding a blocking diode to the panel. You may or may not get more out of your panel
by using blocking diodes on these type of panels, On multiple panel arrays, blocking diodes should be used,
especially on unattended remote systems, to guard against a failed panel. Because they are glass covered, a
stray falling branch, hailstones, a child with a rock, or bored hunter could bring the entire system down by
damaging only one panel.
AMORPHOUS panels are a very different when compared to the other types of panels. They have a fairly
substantial nighttime draw of power from the batteries when compared to single crystalline panels. The loss at
night is higher than the loss you get by adding a blocking diode to the panel; in addition, these type panels could
actually draw enough power from the batteries at night to damage themselves if diodes are not used. To
compensate for the diode loss, most amorphous panels have a higher operating voltage, to make up for the
voltage drop losses of the diode.
Blocking diodes should be used on all systems when panels have been connected in series to charge 24V,
or higher voltage batteries, or when using an inverter on the system. Inverters can cause voltage spikes
as high as 60 volts on the DC positive wires. This is enough voltage to damage most solar panels.
In conclusion; blocking diodes should be used on all systems except, one panel single crystalline 12V systems. If your system
is so marginal that using, or not using diodes will make the difference, consider adding another solar panel to your system

WIND BRAKE SWITCH FOR WIND BLUE (AND ALSO THE INTERNALLY-CONTROLLED) WIND MILLS

In case the wind is fierce and you want to brake the wind mill as the mast is being lowered to fair it out of the wind or for hassle-free servicing:

https://youtu.be/x9PXGcGV2uw?t=434

 

You will want to use a 250VAC, 20 Amp, Double Pole,  Single Throw (three position/three terminal) switch that can be had from the Home Depot.  I used one of these to my Class B RV for using the microwave with the on-board inverter powered by the house battery:

 

http://www.truevalue.com//catalog/product.jsp?productId=6490&parentCategoryId=4&categoryId=58&subCategoryId=505&type=product&cid=gooshop&source=google_pla&9gtype={ifsearch:search}{ifcontent:content}&9gkw={keyword}&9gad={creative}.1&9gpla={placement}&ctcampaign=4680&ctkwd={product_id}&ctmatch=&ctcreative={Creative}&ctplacement=247890-44622122499&gclid=Cj0KEQjw2sO3BRD49-zdzfb8iLwBEiQAFZgZfN7-z20n_hMnupN77Hlpz9YY3qW-1QMlC6b6yRjrkWIaAuiY8P8HAQ

Here is a copy of the WD:

Some people add a switch protector since it probably should only be used in an emergency: